Selvedges. So many opinions.
In order to get 'perfect' selvedges you must use a floating selvedge.
In order to get 'perfect' selvedges all you need is an end feed (or delivery) shuttle.
In order to get 'perfect' selvedges you must have a plain weave interlacement, regardless of the weave structure of the body of the cloth.
Well, those things are all well and good if they actually address the issue of the 'poor' results.
There are so many ways selvedges can go wrong.
Beaming. In my experience a warp weaves off much more nicely if it is beamed under tension - at least as much tension as will be applied during weaving.
Warp packing. In my experience warp packing should be firm enough to prevent threads from upper layers from cutting down into lower layers.
In my experience warp packing should be several inches wider than the warp to prevent ends from sliding off the warp packing and causing issues with different length/tension from the rest of the warp.
In my experience tensioning the warp as consistently as possible makes for better selvedges and body of the cloth than being wildly inconsistent.
Shuttle handling. In my experience I get more control over the weft pick by holding the shuttle cradled in my fingers, not gripped from above.
So in the above photo, the edge of the beige is, in fact, the selvedge. The weft is a reasonably smooth yarn, so all in all, it makes a nice tidy consistent selvedge. But I get pretty much the same result with a 2:2 twill selvedge.
And no, I don't worry about a 2 thread float. I don't even particularly worry about a 3, 4, or 5 end float.
The above photo is 1:3-3:1 twill blocks. No the selvedges aren't ruler straight, but the cloth is 2/16 cotton for the warp and weft as 32 epi, 32 ppi. The length of float isn't a problem. To me. Your mileage may vary...
Currently reading Martha Grimes Vertigo 42