the breast beam shows through this very open cloth - click on the photo to biggify
As mentioned previously, this yarn is being woven very open. It is a highly textured silk, a bit stiff and a little coarse feeling, due to the high degree of twist and the torquing that happens as a result of that high twist. In order to encourage the cloth to drape, the epi/ppi is about 10. I say about because mostly I'm weaving the weft in by feel more than anything else.
This is truly a situation where "If you can't be perfect, be consistent" is a big factor. And the way I can get the closest to being consistent with this cloth is to feel how the beater pushes the weft picks into place.
In previous posts I think I've talked about beating a very open cloth.
At any rate, it is a subtle thing and you really need to pay attention when you do it.
When weaving a very open cloth, the beater is moved towards the fell slowly rather than the usual crisp tap. The whole point being you don't want the weft picks to be side by side but with a space between them.
So as the beater comes forward, slowly, you should feel resistance as it gets closer to the fell. This resistance usually happens about 1/4" away from the fell line. When this resistance is felt, the beater is then squeezed, very gently - and with the same degree of force each time - closer to the last pick. How close will depend on how much space you want between each pick.
With such a textured yarn, the warp and weft threads are not going to be perfectly straight. I think that is quite clear in the photo above. There will be some deflection of the threads, again, partly because of the high twist of the yarn and it's tendency to torque, partly due to the texture.
Bottom line, consistency. That is what is going to work to make such an open cloth from this yarn.
Currently reading The Christmas Wassail by Kate Sedley