Headers

 

laying first pick of the header - note it is about 2.5 inches above the rod with warp tied to it

three picks of the 'waste' yarn without beating in

all three picks are squeezed together, then a fourth laid in which establishes the fell line

about 12-18 picks are woven, during which time I am looking for 'errors' - weaving, sleying, etc.  This weave has some 'floats' at the selvedge, which I am ignoring

There are a number of issues that come up, over and over again and generally the same bits of 'advice' are given, some of which are problematic.

For example, when starting to weave, the advice is to jam the weft down to the bar as far as you can 'force' it.

When it comes to weaving, forcing is generally not a great idea. For this warp, which is 2/16 at 27 ppi, the warp is fairly thin and trying to 'force' it is inviting broken ends into one's life.  Typically I will include around an inch worth of warp into each knot.  This is a 9 dent reed and I took 10 groups of thread and split them in half to make the knot.  You don't have to use an even number but generally the warp will behave better if the forces acting on them are more equal.  Take note of the angle of the warp ends at the edges of the groups - the degree of angle they have to bend compared to the centre.  Some people say to fix this by tying smaller groups, but I find it is actually harder to get consistent/even tension the smaller the groups are.  About an inch seems to be reasonable to work with if I'm not trying to 'force' the yarn right down, packed into the knots at the bar.

It also makes it difficult if you discover a threading/sleying error as there is no room to work to re-tie the loosened groups while the mistake is fixed.

If you want to reduce loom waste, using a lashing cord will help, but I still always leave about 2-3" before I weave the start of the header.  Besides, this is 2/16 cotton and fairly inexpensive.  Do I want to spend 'extra' time tying much smaller knots, fighting with establishing a consistent tension?  Or throw a few ounces (or less) into the recycle bin?  

What I didn't show was the fact that I do not begin tying in the centre and working to the edges, but that I begin at the right hand selvedge, tie as consistently as I can to the left hand, then return to the centre and gently tie the first half again from the centre to the right hand side.  And then I do nothing further.  I've been doing this for a very long time and my hands are sure of what needs to be done.  My warps are never fussed over, tieing here, there and elsewhere.  Just A to B, back to C(entre) back to A and it's good to go.  I will tighten the tension on the warp once I'm done and weaving is ready to commence.

I showed photos either here or in one of my books.  I've loaned my books out right now, but I'll check which one.  I also talk about these things in my video classes at School of Sweet Georgia and Long Thread Media.  Books are here.

I have been reading  Michelle Boyd's book Twist and learned a whole lot of stuff that isn't obvious unless you understand the forces at work that help create yarn from fibres.  I am also reading (reviewing) her next book A Guide for Users which is going to help (especially non-spinner) folk to understand their yarn and why things are always changing.  For instance, this week we got the room humidifier ready because the relative humidity has been hovering in the low 40%.  When it dips below 40 I will start running the humidifier.  There are some yarns that react badly to low humidity (low depending on which fibre!).  If weavers don't know this, they should be made aware.

Plus it's not just the fibres/yarns, but the equipment we use.  Wood shrinks when it gets 'dry' and swells when it gets 'high'.  Meaning looms may start acting up, sticking or becoming loose and wobbly.

Electric anything can start generating static electricity and you'll get static discharge 'shocks'.  Not pleasant.

If you are using a stick shuttle, they tend to work 'better' if you wind the yarn onto the shuttle in the way I've mentioned a number of times, and show in The Intentional Weaver.  

There are so many layers to learning the craft of weaving.  We, as a society, are used to the immediate satisfaction we get from assembling things that come in 'kits'.  Most of us are not used to something - like learning how to weave - taking not just months, not just years, but if you truly want to 'master' it, it will take decades.  

I'm currently in my 5th decade and *still* learning.  And, frankly, that is what drew me to the craft in the first place.  I knew I could study it for the rest of my life and keep learning.  And I was right.

The life so short, the craft so long to learn...