Friday, October 23, 2020

Textile Science

 


When the coming of computers was touted as delivering us into the Age of Information, what the pundits failed to mention is that not all information is 'good' or 'helpful'.  

There is a lot of poor information that floats around the internet with people seeming to rely on what they have been told instead of looking at the actual science of fibres and textiles.

In my younger days, I would leap into every fray, trying to let people know actual facts instead of the myths that were being perpetrated.  But it seems a certain subset of humanity wasn't all that interested in facts but wanted to cling onto their perceived knowledge.  They could never be 'wrong' about anything, did not suffer any kind of additional information with any kind of grace, or admit that someone else might actually know more than they did.

Over the years (I entered the world of the internet in 1994 so I've been around for a while) I got tired of being told I was wrong, that my factual information was suspect, that their source was more accurate than mine.  Fair enough.  If I am wrong, tell me how so I can adjust my information.

One of the confrontations that about did me in was the soap/detergent controversy (for the umpteenth time).

I explained how what you used depended on the quality of the water you were using - if it was highly mineralized, the soap will bind with the minerals creating a grey skuzz (technical term) on the surface of the water, in which case you will want to use a detergent.

I had a pile of people tell me I was WRONG - that you should never, ever use evil detergents on your wool.  Then, much to my amusement, some of them would highly recommend Synthropol or Orvus Paste as being The Best Thing Ever!

Both of which are detergents.  But that information seemed to go right over their heads.

So a recent discussion on a group had people highly recommending using ammonia on wool.  This is not something I would recommend, and if it is used, should be used in a very light solution.  

In terms of wool, the book pictured above has really great scientific information.  There are other books but I prefer this one because it breaks information down into 'just the facts, ma'am' and also has comparative charts.

For wool, which is a protein fibre, it lists wool has having low resistance to alkalis - in other words, alkalis can damage wool.  It has medium resistance to acids.  Again, light solution, limited time.  It has high resistance to solvents.  Poor resistance to sun and microorganisms and insects.

When using soap or detergent, use a light solution for a limited time.

The optimum range for wool is pH neutral - around a 7 on the scale.  There are times when - for special purposes, pH can be shifted either end of the pH scale, but not to the extreme ends.  Alkali will begin to damage wool over10 on the scale.

I did an experiment with my guild - asked them to bring whatever they use for soap/detergent and got some pH paper.  We then tested each of the products to find out where they fell in the pH range.

In light solution (and those words are critical) every single one fell within the safe range of pH for wool.

Another problem that crops up with wool (or any fibre for that matter) is mould.  What do you do if you find you have mould in your yarn stash?

There is a product called Concrobium Mold that actually kills mold.  Bleach is not the best way to get rid of mold, and used in quantity isn't good for human beings, either.

Boiling it is not best practice for wool, either.  Wool + moisture + agitation = fulling.

When in doubt, find some science.  I highly recommend The Guide to Textiles for Interior Designers.  This book has been used in the textile science classes at the University of Manitoba - the authors are professors there - and is now in it's 3rd edition, I think.  Since it's a textbook, the latest edition is very expensive, but can routinely be found in 1st and 2nd editions for cheap.  Worth every penny, imho.

Currently reading Louise Penny's latest - All The Devils Are Here.

4 comments:

Pam said...

I agree with science, and am a guild member myself. I really wish I had gone into Textile Engineering instead of Aerospace to tell you the truth. They don't really have that anymore but back in the late 80s Auburn University had a great program.

Pam said...

BTW, just bought a used copy and can't wait to receive.

Meg said...

Here the recommendation for wool is your bog standard dish detergent, but I suspect this may be a holdover from when everyone spun their own greasy fleece fresh off a sheep. Which reminds me of a Pompeii exhibition in which a tiny section of town was recreated. At the end of the street was an equivalent of modern day dry cleaners, with a barrel left outside. Folks were expected to contribute pee so the cleaner could was wool garments.

Laura Fry said...

I still use dish soap if I’m in the kitchen, sometimes hair shampoo, laundry detergent in the laundry area. Much more important to not use whiteners or brighteners or a product with scent. :)