It Depends (honestly!)

 

Me, here, again reminding people that the only correct 'short' answer when it comes to weaving is...it depends.

If you are a long time reader of this blog, I'm quite sure I've posted this before (and will, no doubt, post it again). * 

So, here we have two yarns, both rated to 3360 yards per pound.  Both cotton.

Are they same?  Do they *look* the same?  Yes, they are both the same number of yards per pound, both two ply, but just *look* at them.  Are they the same quality?  (Not that one is better than the other, they exist for reasons, all of them 'sound'.)

It's true that they sort of look the same.  I had to change the colour photo to black and white to really expose the yarns for the ways they are 'different'.  Not only do they look different, they behave differently.  But some weavers will swear on Bibles that they are the same.   Then they say don't use them for warp because it's weak.  And they turn their noses up and say it's 'bad' yarn.  (The yarn in the photo on the top is Brassard's 2/8 cotton - and it's just fine used as warp as well as weft.  They they are not the same!)

As I've mentioned previously, I have been asked to 'review' a thesis.  Since it is not really even a book, just a manuscript that may - or may not - turn into...something...I am not going to reveal anything other than share this quote that I read this morning:

"Understanding these inherent color and luster variations across different qiviut suppliers holds significant practical implications for weavers and other textile artisans. The non-interchangeability of qiviut from disparate sources means that a specific supplier's product cannot be readily substituted mid-project without introducing noticeable discontinuities in the finished textile. This underscores the necessity of precise material selection and adequate procurement for projects requiring consistent coloration."

 

Yes, yes, yes!  Different processes, regarding fibre prep and spinning, will result in different qualities of yarn, which will result in different qualities of cloth.  

I had to contact the author immediately and ask permission to share this, which she gave.  If she decides to publish her thesis (in some form), I have offered to let people know when it is ready. 

Weavers need to understand the qualities of yarn, how they are achieved, what they are appropriate for, and weave some samples so they know what to expect when they go to weave with them.  With a fibre as expensive as qiviut, this is especially true.

Watch for more information upcoming in WEFT as I examine and compare different qualities of cotton yarn.  I don't remember which issues the information will be coming in, but soon(ish).

In the meantime I would like to encourage people who are doing deep dives into the craft to think about publishing - either articles or books.  With AI pumping out word salad/garbage, we need to take care to conserve the solid information for future/new weavers.

*As usual my books are at blurb