Tuesday, March 9, 2021

Dorothy Liebes, Textile Designer Extraordinare

 


Some textiles woven for a local Ukrainian dance troupe

Something dark

Something light

Something neutral

Something bright


These are the things Dorothy Liebes would make sure were in each of the textiles she designed.  She was instrumental in the development of new yarns and pushed the envelope of textile design during her lifetime. 

She ran a very successful textile design business, working with architects like Buckminster Fuller, and inspired many textile designers like Jack Lenor Larsen.

I had the privilege of hearing Mariette Rouseau Vermette talk about her experience in the textile studio of Dorothy Liebes and what an impact she had on her own work.  I also had the great good fortune to attend a class with Jack Lenor Larsen on colour.

While I had never thought much of myself as a designer, upon reflection I realize now the subtle influence all of these people had on my own attitudes and therefore my own designing.

Another person who had a great influence on me was Michelle Whipplinger.  From all of these people I learned the value of having a mental reminder such as the little rhyme of Dorothy Liebes, and Michelle Whipplinger's White Dilutes, Grey Muddies, Black Intensifies.

Not feeling very competent in my own skills, my own judgement, using these simple guidelines plus the Fibonacci series of numbers as a jumping off place, I forged ahead, trying to make something new (at least to me) in a way that at least pleased my eye.

Doing some research into Ukrainian textiles I saw these principles used.  Being aware of the theatre/dance, I also knew the value of scale and things like glitter - a yarn that Dorothy Liebes helped develop.

While I don't always utilize all of the four elements in the rhyme, I do try to keep them in mind, including matt/shiny and smooth/texture as other design elements.

Very few weavers in the 21st century know of Dorothy Liebes.  I hope everyone will take a few minutes to read the Wikipedia entry about her (link above.)



scarf



towel with cotton boucle as weft (plain weave)


table runner, cotton flake as weft


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