Tuesday, December 8, 2020

Reading Drafts part VI


Fabric Structure by John. H. Strong was published in 1947 and reflects British terminology - eg honeycomb or Brighton honeycomb is what North Americans would call waffle weave.  (top photo)  Strong shows a variety of tie ups for achieving different effects in the cloth and then rather poor black and white photos show the cloth after wet finishing.   This is one of those weave structures that relies on wet finishing to develop to its final state.

here is a four shaft version showing much the same - areas of plain weave, then diamonds with weft floats, then warp floats.  shown in liftplan because treadles tend to run out, so a direct tie up is more versatile even if it means holding down three treadles at once to get the different options,

In the section on pile weaves (and others) he utilizes cross section drawings so that you can see the actual path through the cloth.

It is small format, very little white space on the page, text crammed in to get as much information in the book as possible.  The language is of its time - 1940s British English - so a bit pedantic.  Not everyone will feel comfortable reading the text, but I find that it's an interesting alternate resource for some fairly obscure and not currently well understood weave structures.

Strong uses the 




diagram for showing various twills so it's a good idea to really understand how this kind of diagram works, and goes quite deeply into double layer fabrics in a lot of detail.  Again cross section diagrams help to understand the path of the threads through the cloth.  He also uses different symbols to indicate the different layer threads in the tie up boxes, so while the text might be dense, it is a good idea to at least read the introduction to each section so you understand the kind of notation he used.

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